The fabrics can be used very efficiently, because you don’t have to worry about the grainlines or stretch directions at all.
However, it is good to cut mirror images of the foam pieces symmetrically. Otherwise you can lay patterns in any direction.
Zigzag stitch of the lining
Place the edges of the parts of the lining accurately against each other. Sew on top of the parts so that the zigzag stitch extends to both sides equally. Feed the pieces evenly and use alignment marks as an aid. Remember to stitch back and forth in the beginning and end.
Combining the cup parts
Sew the seams of the cup from the distance of the presser foot from the edge. The length of the stitch is about 3mm.
Finishing touches of the seam with zigzag
Open up the seam allowances of the previous stitch and sew a narrow zigzag on top of the seam. Make sure that the seam allowances stay open when sewing.
Trimming the seam allowances
Trim the seam allowances.
N.B.! If the cup is formed of three or more pieces, perform the previously mentioned stages separately for each seam. You will find the sewing order from the information page delivered with the pattern.
Shaping the cup
Pinning the cover
Place the finished cup cover on top of the lining by pinning them first together approximately in the centre where the seam is. Stretch the cover gently in the direction of the seam(s) and pin it in place from both ends. When the seam(s) is nicely in place, you can continue setting the cover by gently stretching, evently to every direction. Pin from the edges. The fabric going over the edges will be cut away later.
Pin the both cups ready, so that you can state that the cover is stretched approximately in the same way in both. The stretch of the fabric and the direction of the thread influence how much the fabric falls over the edges of the lining in different parts.
Sew a stitch on the edge of the lining a few millimetres away from the outer edge. Cut off excessive material carefully.
Attaching the tape providing extra support
If you want, you can attach a satin or nylon band to support the cup. You can see the centre part of the inner tape from the pattern of the lining. The most important thing is that its upper edge is under the strap. Attach the band from both ends to the lining with a straight stitch. The band must be exactly as tight as the lining.
Fold-over elastic to the bottom of the cup
Sew a fold-over elastic to the bottom edge of the cup with a zigzag stitch that has the width of about 5.5mm and the length of about 2.5mm. You do not need to stretch the elastic. Here you can also use a narrow satin bias tape instead of Fold-over elastic.
Elastic to the bottom edge of the band
Sew the elastic to the lower edge of the band with zigzag stitches on the top side, so that the edge of 1-2mm stays outside the stitch (1). Later, when the band will be turned to the back side, this small edge forms a beautiful, carefully finished bottom edge. You do not need to stretch the elastic when sewing. Turn the elastic to the back side and sew zigzag stitches to the inner edge of the lower elastic on the top side (2).
Making the bridge
Place a suitable sized bridge piece and inner fabric piece against each other and sew the lower edges together from about 4mm away. Turn the centre-front piece to the right side and stitch from a few millimetres away from the lower edge. Cut the bridge according to the pattern and sew the pieces together from the edges, as well.
Underwire channel tape
Attaching the underwire channel tape, 1st stitch
When sewing, place the underwire channel tape under the bottom edge of the cup so that the outer edges of both of them go exactly on top of each other. The underwire channel tape should not be seen from the top side. The first combining stitch comes right next to the inner edge of the fold-over elastic (1). Check from the backside that the underwire channel tape has been attached evenly.
Combining the cup and the band
Join the cup, the centre-front piece, and the bra band
Pin the bra band between the underwire channel tape and the cup as deep as you can get them. Note that the curve of the side piece can be stretched a little (about 1cm), so that it fits more nicely.
Place the centre-front piece in the same way between the parts and pin it in place. Compare the seams of the cup and the lower edge of the centre-front piece of the band, so that you will get the both sides in place symmetrically.
Stitch everything together on the top side right from the outer edge of the fold-over elastic. Make sure that the stitch also hits the outer edge of the underwire channel tape underneath.
Fold-over elastic to the upper edge of the bra
The bra part
Sew with zigzag stitches the fold-over elastic to the upper edge of the bra part, from back attachment point of the strap to the front, on the top side. Do not stretch or feed the elastic. The width of the zigzag can be about 5.5mm and length about 2.5mm. You can sew a double stitch in the centre-front to close the ends of the underwire channel tapes for certain.
Thread the underwires in place, the coloured end of the underwire to the front.
The fold-over elastic that comes to the upper edge of the band can be stretched a little when sewing, but do not stretch anymore when you come to the sides of the cup.
Note! In a balconette style bra, you can make the finishing touches for the whole upper edge at one time. Only remember to change the “handwriting” when you come to the cups, meaning that you should not tighten the tape. Remember to place the underwires before sewing!
You will find instructions for making straps, the hook closure, and stitches that strengthen the underwire channel tape.